Meine Argentinienreise 2007/2008

My travel to the north of Argentina (English summary)

I left Buenos Aires (I will miss it) because my internship in Córdoba starts in September but before that I had two free weeks I wanted to use for traveling north. So I crashed into Córdoba, left my luggage there and took a bus to Salta where I arrived on 21/08. Salta which is called “La Linda – The Beautiful” is indeed a nice city. I was there during my travel in 2003 so that I knew some places. Salta is a town you can walk and walk for visiting historical places, watching people and getting the feeling that this is not Buenos Aires, not Europe but this is the land of the Indian people.

The day after (22/08) I took the bus to San Salvador de Jujuy, the capital of the province Jujuy. This province is one of the most interesting regions of Argentina – far north, far away, mystical and with an unique landscape. The city of San Salvador is not thrilling but fortunatly they celebrated the 195^th anniversary of “Exodo Jujeno”. This is a remarkable point of history there because in 1812 – during the War of Indepence against the Spaniards – General Belgrano invited the citizens of San Salvador to follow his troops and burn down the town to crush the supply of the Spanish troops. It was celebrated with a big parade of gauchos, concerts and plenty of events around it. I stayed there for two days.

San Salvador is actually only the beginning of my adventures in the north. I wanted to see the famous Quebrada de Humahuaca which is a valley with a length of about 130 km. A special characteristic of that valley are the colorful rocks and hills. Near Purmamarca where I stayed on 24/08 is the “cerro de siete colores” – the “Hill of seven colors”. Especially in the morning and in the evening when the sun is low the colors are luminous. This is a real spectacle of nature you can not describe with words or catch with a camera. You have to see it.

After that I traveled step by step northwards, visited an old Indian fortress in Tilcara, little churches in villages, joined a church service to learn that the Indians are good catholics but still celebrate their old rituals for “pachamama” and the gods of their ancestors. I learnt a lot about history, colonialization, repression by the Europeans and resistance against it.

In Humahuaca where I arrived on 26/08 I met a very interesting social project. It is called AYNI – Residencial Estudiantil Aborigen Comunitaria and is a residence for indigenous youth of that region who live too far away from schools and who have now the opportunity to stay and study there. But it is also a place to stay for tourists who are interested in cultural exchange and responsible tourism. The residence is still under construction, and I remained there for almost four days (instead one night as planned) to understand the idea, to work and help.

Humahuaca is just a little village which sleeps between 2 and 6 pm but there is also an interesting museum of a painter named Francisco Ramoneda who used to live here and who was a famous person who knew the world. Take a look at the virtual museum with its fascinating paintings you would never expect in that little, dusty village in the far north: http://museoramoneda.com.ar

I left Humahuaca on 30/08 because I had to continue my travel northwards. Next station was La Quiaca at the border to Bolivia. I crossed the border to stay for almost a day in Villazon in Bolivia because I needed a new tourist visa for Argentina which lasts 90 days but I am also always fascinated by cities and towns alongside a border between two countries. This is the right place to see the differences between here and there, here you can see the whole range of people and characters.

Two weeks passed by rapidly, and I had to come back to Córdoba again because my job starts on 03/09. It took me two days to return by bus, and now I am in the city which will be my hometown for almost three months.

Nice view of the provinces

11:17, 19 September 2007 .. Geschrieben von Anonymous

Thomas, this is Mirta from CS. You reminded me of your blog, here I am. You painted such a real view of what those provinces are like, got shocked somehow, at the way you portrayed the scenario so well.
I like you blog and once again, hope you make the best of enjoyments in Argentina.
And thanx for the helping hand to my country people.